United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) takes the task of preserving cultural and natural sites valuable to the world. In 1997, UNESCO added Suwon’s Hwaseong Fortress to the list of protected properties. These days, the area inside the fortress wall is developed with modern buildings and streets and only the wall, its structures, and the newly restored palace are evidence of the past.
Suwon is a city located in Gyeonggi-do, just outside of Seoul, but still on the subway line. If you take the subway from Seoul Station, you can get to Suwon Station in 1 hour. Right outside Suwon Station is a large Tourist Information Center where you can get maps and help in English to find Hwaseong Fortress. From Suwon Station, all you need to do is take a 10 minute, 1,500 Won bus ride and you’ll find yourself at Paldalmun, Korea’s National Treasure No. 402 where you can begin your exploration of the fortress built from 1794-96.
Paldalmun is the only part of the fortress not connected to the main wall. After the Korean War when the fortress was being preserved, it was decided that the businesses that were where the walls were should stay. So you have this large fortress gate sitting beautifully in the middle of a giant traffic circle. One thing to be cautious about is crossing the street to get a closer look at Paldalmun because there are no crosswalks leading to it and because the gate is so big, it is difficult to see vehicles coming around it.
From Paldalmun you can turn left or right and find the fortress wall which is about 5.7km in length. There is a path that goes along the entire length. Most of it is really easy walking, but there is one section that goes up a short but steep hill and leads to the fortress’ highest observation point.
There are two places within the fortress where you can ride the Hwaseong Trolley for 1,500 Won. The trolley goes half way around the fortress. The return trip costs another 1,500 Won and uses the same route. I used the trolley because I wanted to get a quick view of things before setting out on my walk. The trolley takes you around the outside of the fortress.
There is an English recording of information about the fortress playing while you ride the trolley, but it is almost impossible to hear clear enough to learn anything. Refer to the map of Hwaseong you receive at the Tourist Information Center for tidbits of information about Hwaseong. If you don’t have time or interest in walking around the outside of the fortress, the trolley is a good idea for seeing half of it.
When I exited the trolley, I simply began walking around the fortress wall. This was a treat for me. The fortress wall is impressive in itself, but when you look out from behind the wall and see the modern apartment complexes and businesses, you can really appreciate the fact that this fortress has been preserved. The blending of this fortress with modern times is part of the fortress’ charm.
I spent 3 hours and 40 minutes at Hwaseong Fortress. I waited 20 minutes for the trolley and I took a 20 minute rest at one of the observation points, so I think one could walk around the entire wall while taking photos in about 3 hours.
At the end of my hike I went in search of Suwon’s “Native Products” as is mentioned on the Suwon Tourism Map. The first was something called Yangnyeom-galbi (marinated beef ribs). I found a recommended restaurant, but a single serving cost 33,000 Won. Not wanting to pay that much for my lunch, I left Suwon without trying it.
The other product I looked for was an alcohol called Bulhui which is supposed to be good for your health since it is made from 12 kinds of medicinal ingredients. I asked a Korean to call the company to find out where I could buy it, and it turned out to be far away from where I was at the moment. So I left Suwon without this as well.
Sitting at my desk and looking back, I can recommend a day trip to Suwon’s Hwaseong Fortress. One can easily make a trip to Suwon from Seoul and be back to Seoul for another activity at night. If you are the least bit interested in World Cultural Heritage sites, visiting Hwaseong Fortress is a must.
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